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Sunday, March 15, 2009

An Ode to Corned Beef

Corned beef and cabbage: an authentically Irish meal, fit for a ginger king. That's what I thought until I stumbled upon "The History of Corned Beef". While a tasty morsel of this briny beef is definitely fit for this ginger, it's decidedly not Irish. In fact, corned beef's origins lie with the Jews right here in America. I know, I couldn't believe it either. Hungry Irish-Americans in the 19th century, looking to recreate a delicacy from their homeland, substituted Jewish brisket for the traditional but ne'er-to-be-found "bacon joint" in their holiday cooking. In this way, contemporary corned beef was born. We have, in large part, the Jews to thank.

Let's get one thing straight: I love corned beef. I love its high fat content, I love its stringy, delicate nature, and I especially love dipping it in hot, whole grain mustard. Unfortunately, I only eat it once or twice a year. This year's St. Patrick's Day celebration at Mom's house involved no green decorations, no leprechauns, and no drunk Irishmen. Just a perfectly-boiled and spiced corned beast. If someone were to taste this and tell me they "just don't like it" or "it's too fatty," I would be incredulous, to say the least, and probably feel personally offended. Simply put, if I find out you don't like corned beef, I will regard your decision-making abilities as irrational and disregard your opinion on almost all matters. That is how good corned beef really is.

Mom's method is simple. Heat a big pot of water until it's boiling. Place pre-salted corned beef into pot along with packet of "corned beef spices" (peppercorns, cloves, mustard seeds, bay leaves, and probably some other stuff). Add several large peeled onions and chopped up celery and simmer for approximately three hours. Remove meat from pot and strain out vegetables and as much of the spice mix as you can. Finally, simmer cabbage and carrots in the broth for 15 to 20 minutes. Potatoes are also a popular addition to this dish. I find that the boiled cabbage is overwhelmingly addicting and all you really need to perfectly complement the savory meatiness of the beef.


Mom began this process late in the day so the finished corned beef sat in the fridge all night long, solidifying its deliciousness. The celebration began in earnest the following day. I sprang out of bed early at 10:00 a.m. with a newly-discovered sense of youth and vigor, and a raging appetite. I had planned to reheat everything and devour it without any thought of preparing the meat, cabbage, onions, and carrots otherwise. My mom was already in the kitchen, however, in the process of putting together.....yeah, you guessed it....two, stuffed sandwiches with all the essential trimmings (sauerkraut, the meat, Swiss cheese, Russian dressing, and pumpernickel bread). She had even fired up the George Foreman Mean Lean Fat Reducing Grilling Machine! Some aloof individuals may scorn this grill with indignation, believing it to be some newfangled gimmick, a tool of convenience only suitable for the layman chef. To them I say, please, don't disparage the Foreman simply based on its cheap outer shell or your distaste for the man himself without giving it a spin first. It has its limitations, to be sure. But in the case of this sandwich, it did its job magnificently. Butter, I dare say, was neither used nor missed. After a few minutes under Foreman's heat, we removed the first sandwich. The melted Swiss was flowing like cheese lava from a Corned Beef Reuben volcano! What a sight to behold. With boiled veggies to sop up the sandwiches' entrails, it was a truly epic two minutes of consumption.

2 comments:

  1. Wow! That's one heck of a Rubin! I'm your mom's friend MJ. I am a foodie as obviously you are. Jane encouraged me to indulge in your gastronomic adventures and so I have - salivating over your cuisine. I recently shared a favorite monicotti (Mon e got)recipe with your mom - she'd love for me to share it with you. So I shall!
    Here goes: Make a fresh sauce (I have my fav if you want) Get an 8" nonstick pan. Mix 1cup cold water, 1large egg, 1cup flour(add gradually),2tsp salt to consistency of heavy cream. Add water to thin, flour to thicken. Chill 1/2hr. Heat pan w little coat of oil. Use 3Tbs utensil & coat bottom by swirling the pan. Heat until dry. Circle and stagger noodles on a round plate (like a pretty flower). Cool
    Filling: Mix 3lbs ricotta,2eggs,parsley chopped,S&P,1/2cup grated cheese (spinach, other spices- whatever!)
    Assemble: Gently remove noodles 1by1. Fill along center w approx 2Tbs cheese and overlap sides to center. Place flap down in sauce filled baking pan. Coat with only a little sauce and moz cheese. Leave room for plumping. Bake 350* 30 to 45minutes. Freezes great! Makes about 10. These are so light and delicious - you will never buy a store version again. Hope you enjoy. And good luck w your new job!

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  2. Thanks so much, MJ. I will try the mon e got recipe very soon and let you know how it goes. My mom says it's delicious and definitely worth trying out. Thanks for checking out my blog!

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